How to Make Faux Pocketscomments (0) October 10th, 2008
Tailored details can take your garment to a new level, and here’s an easy way to dress up a jacket and create the illusion of a welt pocket when the pocket isn’t actually there. Welt pockets, by the way, are inserted pockets that form a bound slit in the garment and are often covered by a flap. If you want to a learn a great method for making welt pockets that is practically foolproof, check out the book Jackets for Real People by Palmer and Pletsch. I’ve been using their method for years with all kinds of fabrics, including the fabric I quilt myself, and it always works.
To make these flaps:
1. Cut out the flaps included in your pattern, or make a pattern yourself. You’ll need to cut two from the garment fabric, a lining fabric, and lightweight fusible interfacing.
2. Fuse the interfacing to the lining. Stitch the lining to the flap, right sides together, leaving the top open.
3. Grade (which means trim the lining slightly more than the flap) and notch the seam allowances.
4. Press the seam open.
5. Turn to the right side and press.
6. Topstitch 1/4 inch from the edge with a slightly longer stitch.
7. Mark the pocket placement line on the garment and the seamline on the flap lining side. Place the flap on the garment with right sides together and the top of the flap toward the bottom of the garment.
8. Stitch along the seamline through all thicknesses, and trim the seam allowance.
9. Press the flap down and topstitch 1/4 inch from the top edge.
10. The seam will be encased on the inside.