How to Make Faux Pockets

comments (0) October 10th, 2008     

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MaryRay Mary Ray, contributor
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A well-finished flap adds great detail to a garment and you dont even need to make the pocket!
Cut out the flaps from the fabric, lining, and interfacing.
Fuse the interfacing to the lining, and sew the lining to the flap.
A well-finished flap adds great detail to a garment and you dont even need to make the pocket!

A well-finished flap adds great detail to a garment and you don't even need to make the pocket!

Photo: Mary Ray

Tailored details can take your garment to a new level, and here’s an easy way to dress up a jacket and create the illusion of a welt pocket when the pocket isn’t actually there. Welt pockets, by the way, are inserted pockets that form a bound slit in the garment and are often covered by a flap. If you want to a learn a great method for making welt pockets that is practically foolproof, check out the book Jackets for Real People by Palmer and Pletsch. I’ve been using their method for years with all kinds of fabrics, including the fabric I quilt myself, and it always works.

To make these flaps:

1. Cut out the flaps included in your pattern, or make a pattern yourself. You’ll need to cut two from the garment fabric, a lining fabric, and lightweight fusible interfacing.


Cut out the flaps from fabric, lining, and interfacing.

2. Fuse the interfacing to the lining. Stitch the lining to the flap, right sides together, leaving the top open.


Fuse interfacing to the lining and sew the lining to the flap.

3. Grade (which means trim the lining slightly more than the flap) and notch the seam allowances.


Trim the seam allowances.

4. Press the seam open.


Press the seam open to ensure crisp edges when turned.

5. Turn to the right side and press.


Turn and press.

6. Topstitch 1/4 inch from the edge with a slightly longer stitch.


Topstitch around the sewn edges.

7. Mark the pocket placement line on the garment and the seamline on the flap lining side. Place the flap on the garment with right sides together and the top of the flap toward the bottom of the garment.


Mark where the flap should be placed on the garment.

8. Stitch along the seamline through all thicknesses, and trim the seam allowance.


Sew the pocket flap to the garment and trim the seam allowance.

9. Press the flap down and topstitch 1/4 inch from the top edge.


After pressing the flap down, stitch 1/4 inch from the top edge.

10. The seam will be encased on the inside.


The flap is totally finished, inside and out.

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