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"On the Borderline"

How to Sew a Bias Tape Facing

cal patch, contributor

37 users recommend

Using an inside bias tape facing is a great way to hem curved edges.

Cal Patch

Here's some single-fold bias tape and my raw curved edge.

Cal Patch

Pin the opened-up tape to the right side of your edge, aligning the raw edges.

Cal Patch

Using an inside bias tape facing is a great way to hem curved edges.

Photo: Cal Patch

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My sewing students are always asking how they should hem tightly curved edges like necklines and armholes. The standard double-turned hem just won't work because the edge of the curve is much smaller than the seamline. I like to finish these areas with an inside bias tape facing. From the outside it will look just like a turned hem! You can use this technique on straight or slightly curved edges as well; it's the way I prefer to finish all of my skirt waists. It also works as a hem when you don't have enough fabric to turn up; all you need is 1/4 inch of seam allowance.

You'll need single-fold bias tape for this method. It's your choice whether you match it closely to your project or use a fun contrast color. You can even make your own bias tape out of the same fabric if you want to.

Here's some single-fold bias tape and my raw curved edge.

Pin the opened-up tape to the right side of your edge, aligning the raw edges.

This is where you sew, right on the (opened-up) fold.

Here's a close-up of how it looks once you've stitched inside the fold.

After flipping to the wrong side, you'll edgestitch close to the lower folded edge of the tape.

And that's it! Your facing looks nice and neat from the wrong side, and all you see is a line of stitching from the right side. Clean and simple!

From the wrong side (inside) you see the tape...

...and from the right side (outside) you don't!

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Comments (10)

TheAfricanQueen writes: I pity the person who has not found your site. After searching the net quite proficiently, I found your info the most informative and the most helpful.

More is the pity that I never learned any of this while growing up. I just made my own bias tape a couple of days ago and I am so very excited! Who would have thought I would have ventured out into sewing land, especially when I have shed many a tear trying to sew clothes. I'm up to my sewing needle in a current project which I don't want to dispel until I am finished.

I'll be posting it on my blog over at www.theafricanqueen.wordpress.com if you want to stop by to take a peek.

Thank you again for the fabulous info on bias tape and how to apply it to a neckline.

Sewingly yours
Roberta aka TheAfricanQueen
Posted: 11:48 pm on November 17th

theemptynest writes: thanks Cal...I will be using this tip often!
Posted: 7:27 am on April 7th

vapeck writes: This technique works great with heavy fabric, too. I made a fitted shirt from stretch denim, and a standard double-turned hem would have been just too bulky. The bias tape helps the hem lay smooth, instead of rolling up like shirt hems sometimes do.
Posted: 8:41 pm on December 16th

sunrainor writes: Hi there - I found your post while '10-surfing' How to Sew for my blog What's On 10? http://whatson10.blogspot.com - I featured your great tutorial there and this site - I think it's great!
Posted: 7:35 am on December 14th

cavalierking writes: Hey! Great, simple idea. Love it!
Posted: 3:13 pm on November 10th

msnge writes: great info and love the pictures.
Posted: 8:36 am on November 8th

Jemparrot writes: Thank you! This is so helpful! I didn't have a clue how to hem some of the skirts I've made----and it shows.
Posted: 4:34 am on November 8th

DarleneChun writes: Really nice job! Great finish and easy trick to a perfect rounded/curved hem.
Thanks.
Posted: 5:58 pm on November 5th

ifthebirdsknew writes: wowza....if i only had a gal like you hanging around in Somerville my hems would be way well sewn! great photography. kiss kiss
Posted: 1:37 pm on November 5th

cirone writes: wow, that's really helpful! great pictures. i had been wondering how to sew curved lines and was cutting weird notches into it (like on an inside of a bag) but not liking that because it didn't really seal off the seam from fraying.
Posted: 2:46 pm on November 4th

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