How to Sew a Bias Tape Facing

comments (16) November 4th, 2008     

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My sewing students are always asking how they should hem tightly curved edges like necklines and armholes. The standard double-turned hem just won't work because the edge of the curve is much smaller than the seamline. I like to finish these areas with an inside bias tape facing. From the outside it will look just like a turned hem! You can use this technique on straight or slightly curved edges as well; it's the way I prefer to finish all of my skirt waists. It also works as a hem when you don't have enough fabric to turn up; all you need is 1/4 inch of seam allowance.

You'll need single-fold bias tape for this method. It's your choice whether you match it closely to your project or use a fun contrast color. You can even make your own bias tape out of the same fabric if you want to.

Here's some single-fold bias tape and my raw curved edge.

1. Begin by opening up one of the tape's raw edges and pinning it to the right side of your curved edge, matching up the raw edges of bias tape and fabric.

Pin the opened-up tape to the right side of your edge, aligning the raw edges.

2. Sew directly on the foldline, about 1/4 inch from the edges of the tape and fabric.

This is where you sew, right on the (opened-up) fold.

Here's a close-up of how it looks once you've stitched inside the fold.

3. Flip the tape to the wrong side of the fabric and pin again. I like to fold it just slightly beyond the seam so that the tape will be completely hidden from the right side. From the wrong side, stitch again very close to the folded edge of the tape.

After flipping to the wrong side, you'll edgestitch close to the lower folded edge of the tape.

And that's it! Your facing looks nice and neat from the wrong side, and all you see is a line of stitching from the right side. Clean and simple!

From the wrong side (inside) you see the tape...

...and from the right side (outside) you don't!

posted in: neckline, bias tape, facing, armhole, finish