Handling Eyelet

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Ann Steeves, contributor

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Underline eyelet with a contrasting color for instant zing.

Ann Steeves

A Hong Kong finish involves using bias tape or organza to bind raw edges.

Ann Steeves

Avoid using fusible interfaces on eyelet. Opt for silk organza, which provides practically invisible support.

Ann Steeves

Underline eyelet with a contrasting color for instant zing.

Photo: Ann Steeves

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Eyelet is everywhere this season! Eyelets of all types made a huge splash on runways for spring, and they are going strong well into summer. You can find eyelets in all sorts of fabricactions, from crisp cottons to soft rayons to sensual velvets! And as a sewer, you can make all sorts of gorgeous garments from this airy delight. But there are a few tricks that will make handling eyelet even easier.

Interfacing – because of the open-stitched nature of eyelet, I avoid using any fusible interfacings on it. Instead, I use silk organza in a color close to that of my eyelet fabric. It doesn’t have to match exactly. If you prefer, you can use organza in a shade that matches your skin tone instead. You can find silk organza in a rainbow of colors at most fabric stores and Web sites. Baste the organza to the facings, collars, and any other piece that needs it by using a long hand or machine stitch within the seam allowances. It takes just a few extra minutes, and the results will be well worth it!

Avoid using fusible interfaces on eyelet. Opt for silk organza, which provides practically invisible support.

Seam Finishes – Because eyelet has holes that allow you to see through the fabric, how you finish your seams can make a big difference in the final look of the garment. Seam finishes I like include: serging the seam (bottom left photo), sewing the seam with a regular sewing machine (bottom right photo) and then serging the raw edges and a Hong-Kong finish using bias tape or organza (third photo below). All of these will give a clean, non-bulky, professional finish.

A serged seam provides a clean-finished edge.

You can sew the seam using a regular sewing machine, then serge-finish the seam allowances.

A Hong Kong finish involves using bias tape or organza to bind raw edges.

Underline for Modesty or Contrast – Part of the fun of eyelet is the peek-a-boo quality. But some eyelets can be more “boo” than “peek”. In those cases, I underline my eyelet. Underlining simply involves cutting a duplicate of your pattern piece in a lining or other fabric. Once cut, baste the eyelet and the underlining fabric together, with the right side of the underlining fabric against the wrong side of the eyelet. Then treat the basted pieces as one and sew as usual.

Underlining has several built-in advantages. First, it hides all seam finishes, so you don’t have to fret over them as much (though it’s always nice to do them as a point of pride). If your goal is modesty, underlining, using a fabric that is close to your skin tone, gives the illusion of skin underneath, without any embarassing consequences. Finally, you can use your underlining to add an accent of color to the eyelet. Take for instance, a black eyelet underlined with hot pink, chartreuse, or even animal print fabric. Suddenly, you’ve changed the whole nature of the fabric, and given yourself a designer touch for a fraction of the cost!

This black eyelet underlined with pink stands out.

Eyelet is a fun, fashionable fabric. Let your imagination run a little bit, and it becomes even more fabulous!

For More on underlining, check out Understanding Underlining by Sandra Betzina

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