How to Make a Men's Fleece Hoodiecomments (20) October 4th, 2013
Why is it so hard to make for guys? Usually I would limit myself to accessories, as the thought of making men's clothing tends to send me scurrying. But since I foolishly used my works-for-anyone recycled sweater hat project for last week's post, I decided to face my fear and go for the gold: a men's hoodie. See, I had a revelation at about 2 am last night: Men are square! No, no, I don't mean that they're boring or unadventurous when it comes to fashion (cough, cough). I am referring, rather, to their body shape. Generally speaking, men are fairly rectangular, at least compared with us curvy females. Furthermore, they like their clothes to fit loose and boxy, or in other words, SQUARE. Therefore, making a pattern is a piece of cake!
I used a basic men's T-shirt as my pattern reference (a long-sleeved T or sweatshirt would work even better), and some Polarfleece I happened to have in my stash. Cotton sweatshirt fleece would work great, too.
First you'll need to cut out the five easy pieces (front, back, sleeves, hood, and pocket).
1. For the front and back, I used my lazy method of making patterns: I didn't. Instead, I just laid the T, folded in half along the center front, on top of a double piece of folded fleece (four layers). Allowing for a 1/4-inch seam allowance and a 1-inch hem allowance at the bottom, I simply cut around the T-shirt as my pattern. As I said before, it's a rectangle, so this isn't hard. The only two areas of any minor concern are the armholes and neck. For the armholes, just lift the sleeve and fold it back along the slightly curved seamline to follow for the shape of your armhole. For the neck, use the back neckline for all layers, following the neck seam and not the edge of the band. Once you have entirely cut out both pieces at once, you can separate them and cut one neck slightly lower, making it the front.
2. Then repeat the same process for the sleeve, following the shape of the short T-shirt sleeve but extending the length to be a long sleeve.
3. For the hood, refer to a hoodie you have on hand to get the slight S-shape of the neckline, and just make sure the neckline circumference will equal that of the shirt neckline. You might want to round the top seam so that it hugs the head, but that's optional. Other than that, the hood is simply another rectangle.
4. Lastly, I cut a kangaroo pocket, which is yet another rectangle with the upper corners chopped off for the openings.
Now that you've got your cut pieces, you can start sewing:
5. First, hem the openings on the patch pocket, with a 1/2-inch double-turned hem. Turn under the remaining sides by 1/2 inch, pin, and edgestitch the pocket onto the front of the shirt.
6. Then, with right sides facing, stitch the side and shoulder seams, using a 1/4-inch seam allowance.
7. Next, sew the underarm seams of the sleeves. Flip one sleeve right side out and set it inside the shirt, aligning the armhole edges and the side and underarm seams. Sew the armhole seam (repeat for the other sleeve).
8. Sew the center back seam of the hood, then hem the front opening edge with a 1/2-inch double-turned hem. Seam the hood to the neckline.
9. Hem the cuffs and bottom of the hoodie as you like. I just turned them once, since the fleece is so bulky, and used an overedge zigzag stitch to keep them nice and flat.
Wait, it's done already? And this is what I've been afraid of for all these years?
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