How to Draft a One-Seam Skirt in 30 Minutescomments (16) December 31st, 2008
Christmas is over, and my thoughts have shifted to what I will be wearing on New Year's Eve. Whatever I pick needs to be stretchy so it's comfortable to wear while I'm eating, dancing...and eating again! I designed this one-seam skirt for a class I taught a few years ago. For the class I suggested that my students use fleece. It turned out to be the perfect winter skirt—warm and cozy! I decided to try it using stretch velvet for New Year's Eve! This simple pattern is really a rectangle with some darts along the waistline to create a nice shape. The single seam runs down the center back of the skirt. All you need to make your own pattern is a large piece of pattern paper, a long ruler or yardstick, and your hip measurement. After I show you how to draft the pattern, I will give you some tips on sewing a good dart.
If you're scrolling ahead to peak at how much work this pattern is to draft, don't be fooled by the number of steps, seven in all. I wanted to make it as easy as possible to follow, and each step takes just a few minutes!
Take your completed pattern and lay it on stretch fabric of your choice. Make sure the width of the pattern is positioned across the stretch. Cut it out and get ready to sew some great darts!
The secret to a well-sewn dart is to sew off the end of the dart leg as smoothly and gradually as you can. Use a fine chalk pencil to mark each dart. In addition to the dart legs, draw the center line.
Fold the fabric along the center line, matching the dart legs. Pin the fabric in place.
When you get within 1/2 inch of the dart, shorten your stitch length slightly and continue stitching directly off the edge of the fold at the tip of the dart.
Tie a loose square knot at the end of the dart to secure the thread.
Press the dart on a ham or other round surface. I have already packed my ham in anticipation of moving into my new house, so I used a roll of paper towels to press my dart. Any clean, rounded surface will work if you don't have a ham.
When you sew the longer side darts, mark an inch or so under the cut edges. Start sewing the dart using a 1/2-inch seam allowance. As you approach the end of the cut edge, start reducing the seam allowance as you stitch to the tip of the dart.
I was having a hard time photographing the shiny stretch velvet, so I apologize for the bad picture...I think you can still see that the darts around the waist create nice shaping and the skirt falls evenly to the hem.
After you make this project, show off your work to other members!
Post your project in the gallery