Try These Techniques for Perfectly Beautiful Seams

Mary Ray, contributor

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Four beautiful ways you can seam a garment include (clockwise from top) Hong Kong finish, flat-fell seam, French seam, and pinked seam.

Mary Ray

The flat-fell seam is commonly used on blue jeans and woven shirts.

Mary Ray

When doing a flat-fell seam, press the seam allowance over the trimmed seam allowance.

Mary Ray

Four beautiful ways you can seam a garment include (clockwise from top) Hong Kong finish, flat-fell seam, French seam, and pinked seam.

Photo: Mary Ray

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When you sew two pieces of fabric together, you create a seam. For many projects that’s all you need to know. But, if you’re making a garment, the type of seam and seam finish you choose can really impact the outcome. Seams should be compatible with the fabric and the style and function of the garment. Finishing a seam with a serger is a good option, if you own one. Many commercially made garments are finished this way. But it’s far from the only choice.

Here are four seam techniques you should know—and you’ll have all the bases covered.

Flat-Fell Seam
This is the one used on blue jeans and woven shirts so they’re completely finished and smooth on the inside. It’s a sturdy seam and the best choice for garments that are worn and washed a lot. But, I like to use it on my quilted jackets as well because it adds a nice construction detail.

Here’s the traditional method:

First, sew the sections wrong sides together using a 5/8-inch seam. For thicker fabrics, you might want to sew a 3/4-inch seam. Trim the seam allowance on one side to 1/4 inch.

Press the other seam allowance over the trimmed seam allowance.

Fold under the raw edge and press.

Stitch it in place along the fold.

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Comments (21)

PamF writes: The instructions are so easy to follow. I especially like the photos. I can see exactly what to do. Seems like it can be difficult to get good online photos of how to sew.
Posted: 1:06 pm on March 20th

Weena writes: Thank you for an excellent and clear tutorial. You photos and instructions make the techniques very easy to understand.

I would like to know which technique(s) would be appropriate for clipped curved seams, such as princess seams, and also which would work best for the seams attaching sleeves to garments?

Thanks again!
Posted: 2:11 pm on February 26th

funkified writes: i sure will give it a try in my next project,thank you.
Posted: 2:15 pm on February 25th

seamsoeasy writes: Very informative tute. was nice to see the pictures that were very clear and instructions that were easy to follow.
thanks!
Posted: 6:14 am on February 25th

materialqueen writes: Mary Ray, You say to use bias cut fabric for the Hong Kong seam but your fabric appears to be cut on the straight. I have only seen Hong Kong tailors use selvedge fabric for this finish. Do you find it necessary (or recommend) bias fabric rather than selvedge.


Posted: 1:20 am on February 25th

dbthreads writes: Thank you - this is excellent and easy to understand. I have one question: for a garment with princess (curved) seams that must be clipped to lay flat, would you recommend any of these techniques?
Posted: 7:56 pm on February 24th

Linda68701 writes: Thanks for the great tutorial. I still have a question, though. What did you use for the seam allowance for the seam binding onto the seam allowance for the Hong Kong finish? It said trim to 1/8, I assume it was 1/4, but I want to clarify.

Thanks again!
Posted: 6:31 pm on February 24th

junekaatz writes: Excellent tutorial, clear, concise and taught me something new after all these years! Thank you!
Posted: 12:59 pm on February 11th

floridalou writes: WHO SAID YOU KNEW IT ALL. THERE'S ALWAY ROOM FOR ONE OR MORE TECHNIC'S TO LEARN THAT YOU DIDN'T KNOW.
GREAT DEMO.
THANKS FOR SHARING
Posted: 11:00 pm on October 22nd

faerie writes: Marvelous tutorial! Did not know about the Hong Kong finish. Been sewing for 40 years off and on. Now I want to make a few warm and stylish Jackets. Thank You for teaching me something new.
faerie
Posted: 5:55 pm on April 27th

Stacey_Folsom writes: Thank you. Great tutorial and photos.
Posted: 10:10 pm on April 8th

CraftyJoan writes: I absolutely love these seam techniques. I can't wait to try each of them. Thank you very much.
Posted: 11:13 am on March 2nd

Kyla writes: I can use some of those ideal thanks a lot.
Posted: 11:29 am on March 1st

Isagaard writes: Flat-fell AND Hong Kong...Brilliant!! I now have the finishing answer to my Tyrolean jacket. Thank You!
Posted: 7:47 am on February 28th

elizabethjayne writes: Love this! This is really helpful. I'm a bit unclear on the French seam, but I'm sure it'll come together as I try it :D
Posted: 10:44 pm on February 27th

Patzee writes: Good tutorial. I love the look of your quilted seams.
Posted: 8:09 pm on February 27th

MaryRay writes: DazzLynn,
Thanks for the question. It's a good one.
When I say -- "Make sure it fits" -- that's because you are trimming away seam allowance and can't get it back if you need to slightly expand your garment.
But -- you do need to finish each seam as you go. You can't wait until you've sewn it all together.
Posted: 10:44 am on February 24th

PoochPal writes: Mary, Thank you for a fabulous detailed tutorial!
Posted: 11:35 pm on February 22nd

Tally writes: Thanks for this tutorial.
I haven't been sewing cloth for many years (back than using french seam sometimes), but this Hongkong finish looks so inspiring.
Posted: 6:37 am on February 22nd

DazzLynn writes: This is amazing! thank you. for so long i've wondered about these seams.

at the very end, you say "make sure the garment fits before you trim".

do you finish the whole garment, and then go back and finish your seams? or do you finish each seam as you are working?
Posted: 2:02 pm on February 20th

Sister_Diane writes: I'm so happy to see this tutorial - seam finishing is too rarely covered in modern sewing books. Your instructions are excellent. Thank you!!
Posted: 11:08 am on February 20th

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