How to Knit a Buttony Chevron Cuff

comments (3) February 21st, 2014     

Pin It

leethal Lee Meredith, contributor
Love it! 33 users recommend
For this cuff, I chose to use small, simple buttons on the two sides, with a bigger matching one in the center.
Three simple metal buttons look nice on the busy, variegated colors, whereas colorful buttons might have been too much.
I like how this one pulls a little, making the narrow holes between the buttons.
For this cuff, I chose to use small, simple buttons on the two sides, with a bigger matching one in the center.

For this cuff, I chose to use small, simple buttons on the two sides, with a bigger matching one in the center.

Photo: Lee Meredith
1 | 2   All

Buttons can be such a fantastic embellishment to knit items, and I love making cuffs because they are relatively quick and easy and with infinite possibility! With this particular design, the buttons are essential to the functionality of the cuff as well as add a great design element, without which the item would be boring, in my opinion. These chevron cuffs will look very different depending on your choice of yarn, needle size, cast-on stitches, and buttons. Make yours as wide as you want or make a narrow bracelet, and pick any three buttons to adorn it-all the same, or one special one in the middle, small or large, basic or crazy!

  The same pattern can have very different results because of yarn choice and number of cast-on stitches.

You'll need:

  • Variegated yarn (or stripe between two or more solids)
  • Pair of knitting needles sized for your yarn
  • Three buttons
  • Needle with an eye big enough for your yarn that will fit through the holes of your buttons

For your yarn, you'll get the best striped look by using a variegated yarn with color sections around a couple feet long, which is like the yarn I used for the orange/yellow/green example. A variegated yarn with super-short color sections (an inch or two), like the narrower example, will not show stripes; a long self-striping type yarn may blend between colors instead of striping, or might leave you with a nearly solid color cuff (depending on the specific yarn and the cuff size). Your other options would be to use two colors, changing between them along one side; three colors, changing at the beginning of every row; or nonrepeating color stripes, weaving in the ends of each color when you're done.

  Think about how you want your colors to knit up when choosing your yarn.

If you're a beginner knitter, don't be scared of this project-you only need to know knit and purl stitches, one kind of increase, and one kind of decrease. The buttonholes are made in the bind-off, so there's nothing special to learn for those.

Abbreviations:
kfb: Knit into the front of the stitch, then into the back of the same stitch, to increase 1 stitch.
k3tog: Knit 3 stitches together, to decrease 2 stitches.

Once you have your yarn and needles picked out, decide how many stitches you want to cast on. The only requirement is that it's an odd number, but keep in mind when deciding that because of the chevron, the width will be narrower than you might expect. For my wider orange/yellow/green example, I cast on 17 stitches; my narrower variegated version used 13. Both were knit on size 6 needles with worsted-weight yarn (though the narrow one used a super-stretchy yarn, which is why it's shorter for the same wrist size).

Get started:
Cast on an odd number of stitches with your favorite cast-on method.

Determine x whichever way is easiest for you:

  • Count in from the two ends of your cast-on row until there are 3 stitches in the exact middle-the number of stitches you counted in is x.
  • Or use this formula: (cast-on stitches – 3)/2 = x
  When casting on 13 stitches, x = 5.

x-1 = y

Pattern row (all right-side rows): kfb, knit y, k3tog, knit y to last 1 stitch, kfb.

Wrong-side rows: purl across.

Repeat these two rows until the cuff fits around your wrist. Bind off on a right-side row-the bind-off will create the buttonholes.

  You'll start to see the chevron point after a few rows.

Bind off:
Knit 1 stitch, pull that stitch out into a larger loop (large enough to fit around the button you want to use), knit the second stitch normally, and pull the first stitch over the second like a normal bind-off. Continue with a normal bind-off until the stitch on your right-hand needle is the stitch to the right of the chevron center-pull this stitch extra large as you did with the first before binding it off.

  The middle buttonhole loop will be the stitch just before the chevron center.

Continue to the end, and do the same for the second-to-last stitch, before pulling it over the last stitch. Cut that last stitch and pull it through the buttonhole loop; tie it down and weave in the end.

  The bind-off is normal, except for those three extra big buttonhole loops.

I like to use both strands of each loop as the buttonholes, as it feels more secure this way, meaning that the loops need to be large enough to pull the whole thing over the button. The loop would be able to fit over larger buttons if you were to only pull one strand, making the buttonhole about twice as big. Keep this in mind when creating the buttonholes during the bind-off-I think it's best to try to make them big enough to work with both strands of the loops, and if they turn out too small, you can always make them bigger by using only one strand.

  These buttonhole loops are somewhat small, so I had to choose small buttons, which was fine since it's a narrow cuff.

Choose your buttons, and make sure they fit through the holes. Sew them onto the two edges and to the point of the cast-on edge using your yarn if possible-make sure they are on tight, then tie and weave in all your ends.

  For this cuff, I chose to use small, simple buttons on the two sides, with a bigger matching one in the center.

I like to sew the buttons on using the cast-on tail, weaving it through the stitches to bring it from one button to the next, so there is only that one end to weave in when I'm done. Be careful to tie each button on tightly if you do this-if the buttons pull and are not secure, this method may cause the cast-on edge to buckle due to the connecting yarn.

  Three simple metal buttons look nice on the busy, variegated colors, whereas colorful buttons might have been too much.

My original prototype of this pattern was knit with cotton yarn (I think on size 8 needles), and I used two identical blue buttons on the sides, with a matching shiny blue button in the center.

  I like how this one pulls a little, making the narrow holes between the buttons.

And in case you were wondering, here are the yarns I used on all three examples:

  • Narrow example: Merino 5 by Crystal Palace
  • Wide example: TLC Essentials Multi acrylic
  • Cotton example: Sugar 'n Cream by Lily
1 | 2   All
Did you make this?
After you make this project, show off your work to other members!
Post your project in the gallery
 


 
posted in: Jewelry, bracelet, wearable, yarn, buttons, knit, cuff, wrist

Comments (3)

Latefa writes: I love your work! =D
I still need to learn the chavron stitch =(
wish there was a video showing you making these cuffs =D
Posted: 12:43 am on April 21st
leethal writes: there are actually abbreviation descriptions above the pattern. kfb means "Knit into the front of the stitch, then into the back of the same stitch, to increase 1 stitch." if you need more help you can see sites like knittinghelp.com. hope that helps!
Posted: 9:22 pm on March 14th
Merilyn writes: In the knitting instructions what does kfb mean????? It would be nice if there were explanations for abbreviations. I know some knitting abbreviations but not all.
Posted: 3:20 pm on March 14th
You must be logged in to post comments. Log in.