Red Wool Jacket with Black Velvet Trim

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serenawashington, member

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The princess seams go all the way up and meet the side back seams. I had to add a center back seam as well, so the back has a nice fluted look with its three fitting seams. 

The three fitting seams on the back.

Close-up of the trim, showing the piping detail created with the lining by the method described in the Sew Stylish Fall 2009 issue. 

This is from Chanel's Pre-Fall 2009 Paris Moscow collection. It is a red wool tweed jacket, a modern take on the classic Chanel jacket, with it's higher collar. Seeing this whole collection inspired me, as all of the clothes seemed both beautiful and very warm, with all of the style and elegance which Chanel embodies. 

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I began with Vogue pattern 7975 and some beautiful red wool fabric. I couldn't find a red tweed, but what I found is a looser weave than a lot of suiting, yet still solid enough to be nice and warm. It has a subtle pattern to it which from a distance simply appears to be a slightly textured red, but up close one can see the geometric pattern created by the interweaving of two shades of red, one lighter and more orange, and the other darker and more burgundy. The trim is black velvet, from a pair of pants which were too big and I hated the cut of anyways. The lining is a black polyester jersey, which also acts as a sort of piping around the edge and a contrast facing. I think the black piped look at the edges helps to tie in the black velvet trim as well. 

  First I made a muslin for fitting, and then took that apart and used the fabric pattern pieces to cut out my fashion fabric and lining. After sewing the shell together, I overcast all the edges of my seams and outer edges to prevent unraveling inside the jacket. I had to make the collar from scratch since the pattern was collarless, so I took a long, wide strip of fabric, and pinned it to the neck line, fiddling with it on the dress form to make it work. I also pinned the hem on the dress form to ensure that the hem would look just right on the body. To make the trim, I cut the velvet into long one inch strips, then folded it over twice on itself to create a 1/3" tube; I then pinned that to the outer shell, and sewed it on with a straight stitch. 

  Once the lining was put together, I pinned it to the shell, and rolled it under to create the piped look described in the Sew Stylish Fall 2009 issue ("Over the Edge"). I then hand sewed the lining to the shell, following that up with a straight machine stitch all around, sewing very close to the trim so that the seam would be unnoticed, but would nevertheless stabilize holding the lining and jacket together. After that, I added three black hook and eye closures in the front for an invisible way to keep the cold out!

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