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How to Replace a Coat Lining

comments (11) December 30th, 2009     

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Choose a new lining in a contrasting solid or print in a strong fabric such as silk.
Creating a new lining for a weathered old coat is easier than you think.
A brand-new lining makes an old coat an instant favorite
Choose a new lining in a contrasting solid or print in a strong fabric such as silk.

Choose a new lining in a contrasting solid or print in a strong fabric such as silk.

Photo: Jack Deutsch
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Out With the Old
Use a seam ripper to take out the old coat lining. Leave half of the lining intact—or take pictures—before you rip it apart to help you remember how to put the pieces together later.


Old Lining.


1. Find the center back. If there isn't a center-back seam, use your measuring tape to find the center back from neckline to hem. Measure between corresponding points to establish center points. Mark and connect them to make a center-back line. Cut on this line to divide the lining in half. If your coat has a center-back seam, open it with a seam ripper.


Cut the center-back line.


2. Remove the lining.
Carefully remove the most intact half of the lining from the coat by cutting the stitches with a seam ripper. Leave half of the lining in the coat so you can study how the intact side was sewn. Remove the pocket linings if they need replacing.


3. Take the lining apart.
Remove the stitching in the side, armhole, and underarm seams. These pieces are now your pattern. If there are pleats or darts, cut notches at the edges to mark them, and mark dart legs with chalk. Mark a grainline on each piece. They typically run parallel to center front, center back, and the center of the sleeve. You can also analyze the fabric to check the grainline required.


Use a seam ripper to take the lining apart.


Hot Tip:
It's sometimes possible to slightly lengthen hems and sleeves by adding length to the lining and letting out the hem of the coat, so if you want to do it, now's the time. Also, while you have the lining removed, you have easy access to the coat seams if you want to make slight alterations to the coat. just be sure that these adjustments are reflected in the lining as well.

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posted in: sewstylish feature, sewstylish technique, SewStylish, winter, coat, lining

Comments (11)

debolah writes: well, I am a so-so sewer and while not cheap, kind of broke. I have a beautiful tweed swing coat with a ravaged lining and a boxy, wool coat with shoulder pads (!) with a beautiful perfect lining (life isn't fair, is it?). Using your instructions I will now attempt to adapt them to make an acceptable replacement lining for the beautiful coat by cannibalizing the ugly coat. Wish me luck!
Posted: 4:58 pm on January 5th
Tapestry2u writes: New to this site and found your tutorial. Wonderfully written and easy to understand even to a novice sewer like myself. I have a denim coat I absolutely love and noticed that the cuffs are frayed so this is a timely article for me. How do you know how much fabric you'll need for your lining? Guesstimate?
Posted: 12:55 am on October 10th
MamaLala writes: I am in the process of replacing my liner, I am working with a seamstress/tailor to help me along but want to do some on my own. I have the old lining out and need to cut out my fabric using the old lining as a pattern. does it matter which side of the pattern to lay down, as for most of the pieces I am cutting 2 of each (except for the right and left center panel)? i'm a hopeless novice...
Posted: 4:21 pm on February 8th
rwlangford writes: I needed this. This will save my old coat. Thank you.
Posted: 12:59 am on January 8th
sewingtears writes:
I have long used this method for relining coats and jackets for my own personal use(saved a lot of money)and as a professial seamstress made some money.However not everyone is receptive to the cost of the fabric and the labor fees.Most none sewers(customers)are clueless so I generally do not do many relines because people are cheap and try to make you patch the lining up just to get by.Which I feel is senceless and a wast of my time but you cant argue with a nonsewer who thinks they know everything and are cheap.
Posted: 11:55 pm on January 2nd
ustabahippie writes: Now if you could just tell me how to create a pattern for the lining after I carefully removed the old one and lost it before I could make the pattern! ARRGGHH!
Posted: 3:08 pm on January 1st
FULLMOONCHASER writes: I take exception to the description of which lining fabrics will wear out. I have done many linings of nylon and polyester and find they seldom wear out. It is the acetate (rayon) fabrics that won't hold up to the wear.


Posted: 9:41 pm on December 31st
MerrySunshine writes: Replacing linings in coats or jackets is easy to do. Here is an added tip that might help in getting an accurate grainline for pieces not cut on a fold(like the sleeve or side pieces). With a needle or pin, pull up some threads in the lengthwise grain of the old lining to create a run in the fabric. Hi-lite this run in the fabric with a magic marker or chalk so it can be easily traced to your new pattern pieces as the grainline.
Posted: 2:16 pm on December 31st
tzipi writes: Excellent article with very explicit instructions. Thank you. My husband has an old pierre cardin trench coat in which the lining has worn out. Should i attempt to reline it? Wish me luck!!
Posted: 8:14 am on December 31st
Carolebarrel writes: Great time to alter a long coat into a jacket or carcoat length too. So many vintage coats are too long, especially in the south where the weather never stays cold for long. Your tutorial made a daunting alteration seem ez. A too hot fur coat could make a great vest that might need relining too. Thanks.
Posted: 12:19 am on December 31st
Annielou writes: These are wonderful instructions....My favorite winter coat could use a new lining ... Thank You ... Annie Lou
Posted: 4:29 pm on December 30th
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