How to Replace a Coat Lining

comments (11) December 30th, 2009     

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In With the New
Use your old lining as a pattern to create the new lining. Refer to the intact half or your photos to see how the lining and its details were originally sewn. Always follow the example of your coat’s original construction if it differs from what’s shown here.

1. Smooth the old lining pieces o use as your pattern. Press them flat, unfolding the seam allowances if they are tucked under. Label all of the pieces so you don't get confused later. Tape any tears shut. If the edges are relatively neat, you can use them as your pattern. If major areas (often armpits or around pockets) are missing or vague, lay the pieces on paper and create patterns from them, re-creating what's been lost. Just remember that any corners (such as the armhole base) should be right angles, and be sure to include seam allowances. Copy the grainline to each piece.

Cut the center-back line.

2. Cut out the new lining. Smooth and square the new fabric lining with the selvages aligned. Pin along both the selvage and the fold to hold the layers together. This will help tame most slippery lining fabrics. When laying out the pattern, remember that if you cut your lining in half at center back, you will place the center-back line along the fold. Cut out all of your pieces, and transfer any markings to the new lining. Cut out pocket linings if you need them.


3. Sew the lining details first. Use the intact lining as you model First, stitch darts. Then fold, press, and baste pleats in place in the seam allowance.

Details such as this shoulder pleat should be sewn first.

4. Assemble the new lining. Refer to the original lining's hem. If it was free, sew the lining fronts to the back along the side and shoulder seams. If the hem was attached to the coat, leave an 8-inch opening (more if the coat is very bulky) in one of the side seams. You don't need to worry about finishing the seam allowances, since they'll be hidden between the coat and the lining. Press the seams open as you work. Next, sew the sleeve seams, and set the sleeves into the armholes. Stitch your pocket linings together if you have them, and sew them into the coat.

5. Install the new lining. Double-check the original lining, and determine whether the hem was free or attached. If it was free, hem the lining. Pin the lining to the coat facing with right sides together, matching center back. Sew around the neck and back down the other side with the hem hanging free. Then turn the lining right-side out, press under the seam allowance at the cuffs, and slipstitch them into the cuffs of the coat. You may want to add some swing tacks (see "Master the hand Stitches" below) at the underarms and on the hem at the side seams and center back.

Pin the lining to the coat with right sides together along the coat facing edge.

If the hem was attached, pin the lining to the coat facing and hem with right sides together. Then sew around all of the edges and turn it right-side out through the opening in the side seam. Slipstitch the opening closed. Press under the seam allowance at the cuffs, and slipstitch them into the cuffs of the coat.

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