Pattern Drafting 101: How to Close a Bust Dart and Move the Fullness to the Hem

comments (2) August 1st, 2008     

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JenniferStern Jennifer Stern, contributor
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Trace the front and back of your favorite shirt pattern with a bust dart.
Draw a yoke around the neck on the front and back pattern pieces.
Reshape the armhole to the yoke from its original position at the tip of the shoulder seam.
Trace the front and back of your favorite shirt pattern with a bust dart.

Trace the front and back of your favorite shirt pattern with a bust dart.

Photo: jen stern
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After you spread the pattern 2 inches at the hem, tape the pieces in place.

spread pattern 2
Now we have added fullness to the hem in the back.

Look at your pattern pieces. Starting with the front pattern piece (the one on the left), the section to the left of the vertical line that extends yoke to hem is the center-front piece. The remaining section of the front pattern piece is the side-front piece. The back pattern piece (on the right) is going to be separated into two pieces as well. The section to the left of the vertical line is the center back. The remaining section is the side-back piece.

draw vertical lines through waist darts
The original shoulder seams and the top of the original armholes will not be used.

Cut the pattern pieces apart and add 1/2-inch seam allowances. Now your tunic pieces are ready to use.

 

cut the pattern pieces apart
You will cut the center front/back out on the fold. The front/back side pieces will be cut on a double layer of fabric.

 

Congratulations! You just drafted your first pattern! Gather up the pattern pieces and find a scoop-neck beach cover-up or top and join me to make a trendy tunic with a circular yoke! If you have any questions about drafting this pattern, shoot me a comment.

 

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Comments (2)

JenniferStern writes: You're welcome! If you need any help visit my website jsterndesigns.com and send me an email!
Posted: 6:03 am on August 5th
bee2200 writes: I have been sewing for years, but never felt comfortable with making my own patterns or altering them, other than adding pockets, until now. Thank you so much for this tutorial. I do plan on coming back to this one from time to time. It was so detailed; I really appreciated that.
Posted: 10:00 am on August 1st
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