What sewing technique do you want to learn?

watergirl21403 writes: Where are the answers to the questions asked on this website? I would like to know the answer to the question posted below:

What sewing technique do you want to learn?
I would like to learn how you get the double serging stitch at the bottom of the sweater or the sweater cuff.
I know it must be done with twin needles - but how can you sew it with the serger with out cutting it.

posted: 6:49 pm on March 29th

Posted: 4:15 pm on January 1st

denise writes: i need some help with double faced fabric WOOL
when pulling the fabric apart the glue seems to stretch the outer layer so when you go to sew it it is then stretched
and does not look professional.
then when one sews the inerfabric over becasue you have sewed a seam allowance it seems to bulky to lay flat
so now i am thinking of lining the jacket but this defeats the purpose.

HELP
Posted: 7:55 am on August 28th

4mythreads writes: To NubianGoddess:

Did your client have wide upper arms(biceps)? Perhaps the you could have made smaller seams in the lining....it might make more room when she puts it on...so the dress wouldn't be so tight?
Posted: 1:40 pm on July 3rd

4mythreads writes: I would love to have a professional "Judy". I once found a used store mannequin (hard/very heavy, gold molded plastic?, headless, only torso/hips/part of the upper arms). I think it was a table model for a department store. . that's when I discovered the difference between flat and 3D design. It opened a whole new world for me. Sadly, I no longer have it, but the insight I learned from using it was invaluable.
Posted: 1:28 pm on July 3rd

NubianGoddess writes: Please excuse my 'seamed' typo, always a sewer not a speller, Ha!!
Posted: 7:36 am on May 25th

NubianGoddess writes: What I would like to learn is how to eliminate a problem I seam to have when sewing for others.
The last garment I made for someone ended up being to tight in the armsythe.
I did multiple fittings, first to the sloper I constructed and the dress bodice in the fashion fabric, my client said the arms were to tight after I finished the garment.
I am at a loss as to what I did incorrectly?

Another problem I have encountered was the shoulders in a dress were too tight as well. I did line both dresses, could this be were my problem lies.

All help would be appreciated. :)
Posted: 7:34 am on May 25th

natsnasus writes: I'd love to learn draping and therefore be using my dressmakers dummy more optimally. It looks hard, and I've seen lots of articles written but I believe I need a class!
Posted: 5:40 pm on March 31st

natsnasus writes: @ DeeQuilter:
On my serger, I can push the cutting knife in and turn it (carefully) into an upright position to disengage it.
Does your machine do this? That way I can get the technique you speak of done with no cutting. I've also used twin needles on my sewing machine and done just fine.
Hope this helps!
Posted: 5:38 pm on March 31st

jocelyne writes: I would love to learn the connection between sleeve width at the upper arm, size of arm hole and ease in jacket just under the arm hole. I would like to apply this understanding to tailoring for a smaller chest, bigger upper arms and larger arm movements.
Posted: 11:15 pm on March 30th

GardnerGirl writes: What is the best embrodery/sewing machine for the money in your opinion? My second question is how do you make a lapel and collar lay down flat and look like the store purchased suit? There must be professional tricks used - please comment on these. Thank you.
Posted: 9:22 pm on March 30th

SUZAG57 writes: I haven't sewn for the last 25 years while getting children grown up and working 2-3 jobs, now it's time for me and I want to get back into sewing! I would like a course on what presser feet do what and special tricks or projects to use them with. I went to a presser foot site but it was all so confusing. Maybe you could show us some pictures along with the explanation?
Posted: 4:15 pm on March 30th

DannG writes: I enjoy your magazine and comments from the experts and would like to see more articles and tailoring projects on mens pants. I search the used clothing places looking for good used pants to tailor to fit me and have learned sooo much from all of you. Thank you all....DannG
Posted: 12:29 pm on March 30th

Suzzz writes: I am an intermediate sewer, who has researched on line what is the easiest way to enlarge a pattern. I am so confused now more than ever with all the information. Can someone make it simple. All my patterns even those that were drawn in the 1930's and 40's need enlarging.

I had a sewing teacher but she taught in circles

Thanks

Suzzz
Posted: 10:45 am on March 30th

Sewhopeful writes: I would like tips on how to use the type of fleece that is bonded together. I have a piece of fleece, red on one side and black on the other, that is bonded together with some type of glue. I am trying to make a coat for my daughter -- she is an adult -- but am having problems putting it together -- seams, etc. When I tried pulling the seams apart as is done for thinner double faced fabric, it was really hard to do because of the glue and caused lots of stretching and other bad things. Would really like to know the best way to use this fabric.

Posted: 9:39 am on March 30th

Mechelle writes: I would like to learn the proper seam finishes for different fabrics
Posted: 9:38 am on March 30th

Nashrunner writes: I would like to learn more about tailored clothing and its construction, specifically men's clothing, especially pants and the construction of a covered fly zipper. I have sort of successfully completed a few in the past by myself but have wondered if there shouldn't be a more reliable way to get it right every time without so much left to chance.
Posted: 8:47 am on March 30th

deemail writes: Synthetic dyes. I am interested in dyeing some nylon parachute fabric that I 'inherited' from a friends stash. Does anyone know of a type of dye that will 'take' in nylon. I have used Rit in the washer, but that is about the extent of my dyeing experience so would appreciate any hints out there.
Posted: 10:58 pm on March 29th

deemail writes: Waistband tips: I like to finish the first inch or two as a tab, clipping a notch at the point which will become the center of your closing. Now finish the top/tab end of the waistband, turning right side out and grading and finishing the 'tab' to the short side of the 'clipped notch.'

Now slide the partially finished waistband onto the garment waist, matching right sides together. Seam from the 'notch' smoothly round the garment top, sewing off at the opposite end. Either hand or machine finish the back of the band which leaves you with a raw end on the now finished tube. This will be overlapped and you merely need to overcast or serge the raw end after trimming to the appropriate length for button, hook and eye or snap closing.

I realize the overcast end may not be to some people's liking, but I am much more interested in the finished appearance and the single layer underneath is smoother much less noticeable than a 'properly' finished band...No one will see anything other than the perfectly finished tab closing on the top.
Posted: 10:55 pm on March 29th

deemail writes: for pointed collar tips, there are three little things that will make a big difference...

One, stitch down one short end of the collar, almost to the opposing seam line, turn exactly perpendicular to the seam you just made and take 1 stitch, then turn parallel to the long collar seam and proceed normally till you are almost to the second collar end and repeat.

Second, when turning the collar, trim half the seam allowance off the tip, parallel to the single stitch in the last step. Now turn the collar wrong side up, placing your left hand middle finger palm up in the point as far as you can reach. With your right hand, fold the end of the collar seam allowance over the finger inside, holding down with your left thumb. Repeat with the long collar seam, making a sandwich of both seams folded against the collar lining between finger inside and thumb outside....important....do not let go...now flip the position of the thumb and finger, turning the collar right side out in the process. If you manage to hold it tightly, most of the point will be in place already.

Three, take a needle threaded double with at least a foot of thread, UNknotted. Make one stitch approx. 1/8 inch from the point, pull the needle till the thread only is in the point...holding both ends of the thread, tug gently till more of the point comes out using the thread as a 'handle'...(I like to do this on the lining side of the collar just in case)...now a piece of the point will likely have come to the outside, so pull the thread on through and repeat the stitch closer to the point again...

This usually works really well and when combined with pressing the lining side rolled over slightly and topstitching with your hem-stitching foot set to guide along the outside edge of the collar, you will have a great looking collar...
Posted: 10:39 pm on March 29th

samlilypepper writes: I have three things... 1 - It's been ages since I put in a zipper and now that my grandchildren are looking for new clothes, I'd like to refresh on the proper technique. 2 - I learned proper tailoring for lapels and collars way way way back in my Home Ec sewing classes but I've forgotten most of what they taught me. I just remember that there's a herringbone stitch you do inside so that the collar and lapels roll nicely.
and 3 - I'd like a refresher on the correct steps for bound buttonholes.
Posted: 10:33 pm on March 29th

tamed writes: Bias binding is always a challenge--specially around curves. I understand the theory, but it never seems to quite work in reality.
Posted: 10:20 pm on March 29th

VickiGene writes: I've been making shirts for my 5 year old grandson and making sharp points on the collar are difficult. I thought I understood how to do this from previous lessons from Clotilde, but I must have forgotten everything she said. Please help me make a professionally finished shirt.
Posted: 8:17 pm on March 29th

decorchick writes: I always struggle with attaching double folded bias tape. It always looks bad. I have a special foot that cost a fortune and only seems to work on very thin projects. I would love to make pot holders, placemats, bibs and the like but the finish is never satisfactory.
Posted: 8:02 pm on March 29th

DeeQuilter writes: The double serging stitch is also seen on different articles.
I would like to go further in sewing with the serger. I seem to be in square one and everyone tells me the serger does a lot - how????????????
Posted: 6:53 pm on March 29th

DeeQuilter writes: I would like to learn how you get the double serging stitch at the bottom of the sweater or the sweater cuff.
I know it must be done with twin needles - but how can you sew it with the serger with out cutting it.

Posted: 6:49 pm on March 29th

Consuelo writes: I have been sewing for decades but do you think I can make a professional-looking waistband??? I'd like to learn a simple technique that creates a slightly stretchy (no gatherns when worn), neat and tidy, narrow waistband. I currently use 1/2" elastic as my interfacing. The closure part is always messy and I end up finishing it by hand to neaten it up. THERE' GOT TO BE A BETTER WAY!!!
Posted: 6:48 pm on March 29th

FiveFooter writes: EXTREME Tailoring! Expert fitting & flattering around ALL clients bulges and curves IN EXTREME DETAIL! Basic sewing is for the flat chested mannequin with no challenging curves :(
Posted: 5:01 pm on March 29th

What sewing technique do you want to learn?

Comments (27)