1-Hour Dress
comments (10) May 28th, 2010What says summer more than a chic, lightweight dress? Sew a sophisticated asymmetrical style that can be worn for the office or date night with just a change of accessories. This dress is made from a stable knit fabric and is the perfect addition to your work or nighttime wardrobe. It has a gathered shoulder on one side for an updated silhouette on the classic sheath dress.
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Get more quick dress projects: • How to Restyle a T-shirt into a Tiered Tea Dress • Transform a Men's Shirt to a Cute Summer ShirtDress • How to Embroider a Basic T-shirt Dress |
What You'll Need:
French curve
Hand-sewing needle
Interlock knit, 2 yards
Measuring tape
Pattern paper
Ruler
Sewing machine
Thread
Make the Pattern
1. Take your measurements. Measure across your shoulders; this is measurement “A.” Measure from your shoulders to your desired length; this is measurement “B.”
2. Draw two rectangles. Draw a rectangle that’s half measurement A plus 1-inch wide and measurement B long, as shown below (rectangle 1). Flush to the right of rectangle 1, draw a second rectangle that’s half measurement A plus 10 inches wide and measurement B long (rectangle 2). The line the rectangles share is center front and back. The two rectangles form one pattern piece.

3. Mark the pattern as shown in the diagram. Use a French curve to add a bit of shape to the side seams, starting 7 inches below the top edge on both sides. Draw the neckline opening. Start the opening 3 inches in from the left edge and end 12 inches from the right edge. Be sure the neckline is symmetrical on either side of the centerline. Make curves for the side seams identical on each side. Add a 1⁄2-inch seam allowance to all edges except the bottom, and add a 3⁄4-inch hem allowance.
Sew the Dress
1. Cut out the dress. From the pattern, cut two pieces from a stable knit fabric.
2. Sew the side seams. With right sides together and edges aligned, sew the side seams with a 1⁄2-inch-wide seam allowance, starting 7 inches from the top edge.

3. Sew the 3-inch shoulder seam. With right sides together and raw edges aligned, sew the shoulder seam with a 1⁄2-inch-wide seam allowance.

4. Sew the 12-inch shoulder seam. With right sides together and raw edges aligned, sew the longer shoulder
seam with a 1⁄2-inch-wide seam allowance.
5. Finish the edges. Turn under 1⁄2 inch on all raw edges, except the hem, and topstitch. Turn under the hem 3⁄4 inch, and topstitch.
6. Pleat the dress. Fold pleats into the 12-inch shoulder seam. Gather it to about 6 inches. Hand-sew the pleats in place at the shoulder seam.

excerpted from "Dress Code: In the Fold Dress"
SewStylish Spring Fashion 2010, p. 79
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Comments (10)
I will definitely make it and will comeback to show some pics
:)
Posted: 1:35 pm on July 25th
Posted: 1:00 am on June 19th
I'm going to make this this weekend, but I am going to ruche the shoulder with elastic instead of pleating (I'm all about making it simple) and add some pockets to the side seams. I've been putting pockets in skirts for a while, but here is a quick tutorial...
http://theowlsarenotwhattheyseem.tumblr.com/post/117436602/diy-add-pockets-to-skirts-and-dresses
I'll post a pic!
Posted: 10:40 am on January 28th
I was searching for a basic shift pattern when I found this article. Being a full figure gal, make sure it will fit your bust and hips, and if you want make both shoulders the same. Be creative go crazy....try it in challis or snazzy stretch prints. As we say in Boston, this pattern is "wicked" enjoy it!
Posted: 1:43 pm on July 30th
Posted: 4:09 pm on June 29th
Didn't take more than two hours, I thought the directions were great and thorough.
My only suggestion is to measure from the top of your shoulder to the middle of your armpit, and add a couple of inches - instead of going with a standard 7 inches.
Posted: 8:47 pm on June 27th
I think that the one hour articles of clothing are not counting in the time altering the pattern, laying out and cutting the pattern. setting up the machine with the right needle, testing a scrap of fabric to see how it handles and looks. yes if you just count sewing 4 seams, setting in the sleeves, facings and hem, without Children, husband pets or phone interruptions, it would be possible, but i can't make any thing except a tea towel bib with ribbing or a simple unlined grocery bag in an hour.
Posted: 3:48 pm on June 5th
There is no substitute in sewing for knowing and practicing, all the classic techniques. Your analysis of my rather hasty reaction were thoughtful, but I am so sick of what passes as sewing these days, because no one was taught while they were young.
Posted: 1:12 pm on June 3rd
A serger would make quick work of the seams and finish the inside properly, and the overlock would finish the exposed edges equally quickly. The pleats would need to be flattened and possibly trimmed so they weren't too bulky, or a very thin knit would be required. (Probably still need trimming, though.) Using a very drapey double knit fabric would help.
I'd also consider a facing rather than a turn at the neck, which does mean more time on the ironing board and sewing machine. Without a facing, I'd probably put a very soft knit interfacing at the neck and arms to help it lie better, another step that would add to the time spent on the dress.
Without a serger, I'd use either a knit stitch on the machine (to let it drape correctly at the sides) or be very careful to (evenly) slightly stretch the fabric under the foot while sewing. The use of a double needle would help to cover the edges on the armscye and hem in place of the overlock.
I do note that the pattern piece does not show a curve at the shoulders, but there is a curve on the three inch shoulder seam in the picture, including a straight section to allow for smooth turning of the arm opening and a smooth fit over the shoulder cap. Also, note the clipping at the neck and shoulder seam point in the picture -- this allows the neck turn over to happen without pulling.
The picture also shows a slightly flared section at the bottom of the side seams for smooth turning of the hem, and it's possible that someone tuliped the skirt slightly by cutting the bottom of the seamline in slightly. I'd probably do this a bit more obviously; in the picture of the finished dress, I note that the skirt looks a bit awkward even with that slight tulip in the pictures of the side seams. Using the French curve is ideal for that.
Hope that might help someone who wants to make the dress!
Posted: 5:22 pm on June 2nd
Posted: 4:22 pm on June 2nd