How to Make a Shift Dress - Patterns Included!

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Christine Haynes, member

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Dress project by Christine Haynes for SewStylish Fall 2010

Jack Deutsch

Dress project by Christine Haynes for SewStylish Fall 2010

Jack Deutsch

Neckline detail

Sloan Howard

Dress project by Christine Haynes for SewStylish Fall 2010

Photo: Jack Deutsch

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When fall blows in, it’s all about layering. You might not be ready to put away that cute sundress, but pairing long-sleeved tops and capes with lighter-weight dresses and skirts will ease you into autumn with style.
Here is a dress I love that is easy to sew and flatters almost every figure.

Details can seriously enhance a garment. Here, this basic shift is elevated by bias tape trimmed edges, a contrasting hem band, bust inset and gathers, and fabric-covered buttons. This version is made of lightweight denim and calico prints. To keep it drapey, stick to a medium or lightweight fabric. With frock, you’ll be guaranteed to transition your wardrobe into fall with style.

Shopping List:
Shift dress pattern diagrams
2-inch-grid Gridded pattern paper (ParagonPatterns.com)
2 yards of garment fabric A (MLFabric.com)
1/2 yard contrast fabric B
5/8-inch-wide double-fold bias tape
Thread, scissors, marking tools, 1/2-inch-diameter coverable buttons (JoAnn.com)
Sewing machine

2-10: Hips- 34-39 inches, Waist-24-30 inches, Bust - 30-36 inches
12-18: Hips-40-45 inches, Waist-31-37 inches, Bust - 37-43 inches

Use a 5/8-inch-wide seam allowance throughout unless otherwise noted.

1 Draft the pieces. Following the pattern diagrams, draft pattern pieces on paper to fit your size. Transfer all markings. Follow the solid line for sizes 2-10 and the dashed line for sizes 12-18.

2 Cut the fabric. From garment fabric A, cut one shift front and one shift back on the fold. From contrast fabric B, cut two shift bands and one shift inset on the fold.

3 Attach the bands. With right sides together and raw edges aligned, sew a band to the bottom edge of both the dress front and back. Press the seam allowances towards the band.

4 Attach the front to the back. With right sides together and raw edges aligned, sew the front to the back along the shoulder and side seams. Press all seam allowances open.

5 Hem the band. Turn under the band’s raw edge 5/8 inch and press. Fold the band in half wrong sides together and press with the band's loose edge aligned with the band's seamline. Topstitch the loose edge to the dress along the band’s seamline.

6 Gather the neckline. Baste along the front neckline between the dots, 3/8 inch from the cut edge. Pull the bobbin thread to gather the neckline to 3 inches; tie the threads to secure.

7 Bind the edges. Sandwich the shift’s neckline inside a strip of double-fold bias tape. Topstitch the tape in place close to its inside edge, catching all layers. Repeat for the armholes.

8Assemble the inset. Sandwich the inset’s top edge inside a 7 1/2-inch-long strip of bias tape and topstitch it in place catching all layers.

9 Attach the inset. With centers aligned, and the inset’s right side against the shift’s wrong side pin the inset tothe neckline edge. Overlap the edges 5/8 inch. Topstitch the inset in place from the right side, following the bias tape stitching. Repeat with another row of stitching along the inner edge of the neckline. For the optional buttons, cover 1/2-inch-diameter buttons with contrasting fabric and hand sew in place on the bust inset.

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Comments (10)

Mork_the_Dork writes: I think i'm going to try and make this for a 4-h project. This is very far from my comfort zone, because I usually do pillows, pillow cases, and shoulder bags. Any Tips???
Posted: 7:21 pm on October 14th

CassieroleCreations writes: I love that dress, I really hope i'll have time to make it. I would so wear that to school! :)
Posted: 2:12 pm on September 22nd

LaLeZDesignOriginals writes: Additionally, a sheath with princess seams is drafted by moving the bust dart to the armhole or shoulder, and using a french curve, connecting the new dart to the waist/hip dart and continuing down to the hem. Cut apart and redraft adding seam allowances.
Posted: 5:53 pm on August 14th

LaLeZDesignOriginals writes: Cat is exactly correct. As a professional designer by commission, and drafting, sewing, tailoring instructor, I can tell you that the difference is significant. A sheath does have darts at bustline, waist/hip to streamline the shape. For a shift, generally the bust darts are converted to gathers and placed in the neckline or shoulders to give shape and ease, but the waist is usually straight or with a small curve inward at the waist. It is generally cut with more body ease also.
Posted: 5:48 pm on August 14th

Cat_In_The_Cupboard writes: Actually, it IS a shift dress, which is historically a woman's loose fitting, un-waisted dress. Because of the way it fits, it can shift, or move, easily over the wearer's body. A sheath dress is as afreehand describes: close fitting, generally shaped with darts or princess seams.
Posted: 2:37 pm on August 14th

afreehand writes: much as "shift" might be appropriate if you were working your shift, this style of dress is called a "SHEATH" dress. a closely fitting, straight design taken from the word sheath for holding a knife.
Posted: 11:01 am on August 14th

Christine_Haynes writes: Hi all!
The pattern grid looks to be 2" for each square, based on my original measurements. Hope this helps! Good luck and show us your results!
Christine
Posted: 8:34 pm on August 13th

MarthaMyers writes: Please do post the ratio of inches on the paper to inches on the final pattern. Thanks.
Posted: 8:30 pm on August 13th

Doodlepunk writes: On the pattern, how many inches for each square?
Posted: 8:06 pm on August 13th

MrsCostew writes: If I want to make my own grid paper, do I use 1" squares?
Posted: 7:05 pm on August 13th

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