Deep Orange Fall Jacket

comments (7) October 6th, 2010 in gallery     

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MaterialThing MaterialThing, member
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This jacket is my own restyle of New Look 6519.  I redrafted the opening with an all-in-one center front placket and facing, widened the neckline and drafted a new 3-inch stand-up collar, added a back facing, and redrafted the lining pieces to correspond.  I also added side seam pockets and designed epaulets, belt carriers, sleeve bands, and a belt to get the "trench" style I was seeking.  The stand-up collar is designed with a hidden undercollar (slightly visible in the back view photo), for the future addition of a button-off hood for winter wear.  In the same vein, the front and back facings have a hidden flange (slightly visible in the inside view photo) that conceals a 60 inch zipper for a season-spanning zip-out lining (another future addition).

The outer fabric is a water repellent rubber-backed wool tweed purchased from a couple of years ago, and the lining is a blue, brown, and beige leopard print poly charmeuse from the dearly departed Fabric Place in Framingham, Massachusetts.  I love using complementary colors so I couldn't resist the urge to pair these two fabrics together!  I tied them together with a solid dark brown satin Hong Kong binding on the facings.  The brown shank buttons have rectangular antique gold centers, so I placed them vertically to augment the lines of the plackets, epaulets, and carriers.  They are from JoAnn Fabrics.

Details inside the coat are Armo weft underlining throughout for added warmth, hymo chest, sleeve cap, placket, and back reinforcements for shape retention, chest padding, and shoulder pads.  I made great use of Kenneth King's book, Cool Couture, especially for his method of applying hymo pieces with thin fabric carriers to avoid thickening seams.  This was essential for this coated wool fabric.  Seams were pressed to one side and topstitched, with enclosed seam allowances trimmed to reduce bulk in the hem and areas where seams crossed.  Most of the construction was done with a walking foot since the thick and sticky fabric did not feed well under the standard presser foot.  I also used King's techniques for interfacing pocket flaps and converting seamlines to foldlines on the pointed-end belt carriers, epaulets, and sleeve band carriers, to reduce their bulk and create sharp angles.  Additionally, Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket, from the Editors of Creative Publishing international, was invaluable with its details and photographs of how to cut the hymo for the back and sleeve stays and the shoulder reinforcements, as well as a great reference for the proper order of assembly of a tailored garment.  Finally, Connie Long's Easy Guide to Sewing Linings provided the guidance for drafting the new lining from the jacket pattern, and for modifying the facings and installing the zipper for the future zip-out lining.

As work progressed, the fabric became more difficult to manipulate through the sewing machine due to its initial thickness and the additional tailoring details, but I'm glad I persevered and am happy with the results.  From start to finish this jacket took about 6 months to complete in my spare time - which was worth it, considering that I hope to get many years of use out of it.  Thanks for reading!

posted in: gallery, orange, fall, wool, jacket, trench

Comments (7)

Suzaan writes: It is a very beautiful jacket. You can be proud of your sewing.
Posted: 11:49 am on December 28th
Scheri writes: Beautiful work. Be very proud.
Posted: 11:52 pm on November 1st
MaterialThing writes: Thanks for all of your nice comments! Despite all the challenges this was a really fun project and I learned so much. I will definitely be trying more like this in the future.
Posted: 10:15 am on October 24th
Chardy writes: What a magnificent jacket! Your sewing expertise is applauded and admired! I LOVE LOVE LOVE this jacket!!
Posted: 7:58 pm on October 22nd
nikkikn writes: Wow! you've put in so much hard work into the construction of this jacket. It is beautiful and I absolutely love it! Your sewing is impeccable!
Posted: 12:33 pm on October 18th
TerryElliott writes: I think this is a gorgeous coat!!!
Posted: 8:31 pm on October 17th
nancynancy writes: What a beautifully made coat!
Posted: 9:04 am on October 6th
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