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Create a Custom Sleeve Pattern

comments (7) August 19th, 2008     

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_nikki_ Nicole Smith, contributor
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Measure your sloper.
Measure your arm as shown.
Start drafting your sleeve pattern on the fold.
Measure your sloper.

Measure your sloper.

Photo: Scott Phillips
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a. When you’re stitching up a pattern, notches help as reference points when you’re pinning two pieces together. Putting notches on both the sleeve and your sloper’s armhole will help you fit them together when you are sewing your own designs. To notch the cap, first fold the shoulder point to the bicep line along the center line and crease the fold.

b. Draw a double notch on the back sleeve and a single notch on the front sleeve at the foldline.

Use a double-notch for the sleeve back and a single notch for the sleeve front.

c. Next, you need to notch your bodice pattern pieces. To do this, use a process called “walking.” Beginning at the side seam, align the sleeve back edge to the bodice back armhole edge. Keep the edges flush and carefully inch the sleeve-cap along the armhole edge. Use a pin as a pivot to align the edges as you walk the curve.

"Walk" the sleeve pattern along the armhole seam.

d. When the double notch reaches the armhole, mark the armhole edge with a corresponding double notch.

Mark the bodice armhole with matching notches.

e. Continue walking the sleeve pattern until you get to the shoulder. Mark on the sleeve cap a temporary shoulder placement with a single notch.

f. Repeat to walk the sleeve along the front bodice piece and notch the front bodice armhole. Walk the sleeve to the armhole again and place another temporary shoulder placement notch.

Walk the sleeve to the shoulder point on the bodice and mark onto the sleeve.

g. Measure between your two shoulder placement notches. Mark your new shoulder placement centered between the temporary points.

Measure the halfway point between the two temporary shoulder marks.

That’s it! You’ve now made a sleeve pattern to match your sloper. Be sure and make a draft version out of muslin or other inexpensive material to test the fit before you cut into your favorite fabrics. Once you work out any fitting kinks, you’re free to create your own sleeve designs that fit every time.



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posted in: wearable, sewstylish feature, top, shirt, pattern making, sleeve

Comments (7)

MurielN writes: Thank you. Instructions are really clear and easy to follow. I have already used this tutorial to create two of my own patterns and it worked! I am helping an amateur theatre group with their costumes and of course they can't afford patterns! I use any bits of material I can find to create the costumes so to be able to create and insert a custom made sleeve is brilliant.
Posted: 3:22 am on October 22nd
twixytwix writes: Great! I've been looking for this a very long time and it'll be so easy now as the description is so well described with pictures. It will be a dream to make sleeves as I've got several patterns of tops without any.
Posted: 4:04 pm on July 13th
bespokeshirts writes: Forget Costly Shirts,customize your shirts according to your body type at affordable cost....
Posted: 2:46 am on August 16th
AllynG writes: Quick question:
I'm making this sleeve for a ready-made sleeveless dress. I've unpicked the armhole on the dress, but I'd like to know whether or not I need to add a sleeve allowance. Can anyone tell me?
Posted: 11:53 am on June 3rd
3ahra writes: thx so much,but what is the name of this method?
i want to make a 2 pcs sleeve like men`s coat sleeve,but dont know it,can u help me
Posted: 4:08 pm on February 10th
sophiecai writes: thanks for it....great to learn more
Posted: 11:11 am on February 15th
dette writes: Fantastic! Such a clear easy to folow tutorial. I prefer to wear a sleeve and often dicount a pattern because it doesnt have a sleve, Not any more!!!
Posted: 11:34 am on September 17th
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