How To: English Paper Piecing Project
comments (14) September 5th, 20086. Place the completed top on the interfacing and trace around the outer edges.
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Trace the completed top onto a piece of firm interfacing. |
7. Cut out the interfacing and fuse to the backing piece. Cut out fabric using the interfacing shape as a guide and allowing a 1/4-inch seam allowance all around.
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Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the backing fabric. Cut out the fabric allowing a 1/4-inch seam. |
8. Clip the seam allowance of the backing fabric at each vee. Press the seam allowances to the inside over the interfacing.
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Clip the backing at each vee to the edge of the interfacing. |
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Turn in the edges of the backing and press. |
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Comments (14)
Thoughts on finishing edges:
1) cut hexagons in half (point to point), finish the short edges like the whole hexagons, and sew into the gaps to make a straight edge, then bind with long strips (I used green like the 'paths' between my flowers).
2) cut long strips with the same 'saw tooth' pattern as the edge of the quilt, put the strip right side down on top of the quilt, and sew like the facing of a blouse by following along the edges, and turning carefully in each corner. Turning the corners will be tricky -- might want to add interfacing to make the points a little stiffer. Be sure to trim across the corners and clip the inside 'V's, as you would a shirt collar. You'll want to top stitch/quilt close to the edge to keep everything in place.
Posted: 4:21 pm on August 8th
Posted: 3:12 pm on July 21st
Posted: 10:48 am on March 8th
Posted: 9:19 am on February 13th
How to handsew a patchwork ball! Enjoy!
Posted: 5:44 pm on September 15th
Posted: 8:28 pm on September 14th
you can buy a package of 50 reusable mylar hexagons that can be popped out after stitching. This is one link I found to them.
http://www.connectingthreads.com/tools/mylar+hexagons_TDMylarHexagons.html
Char
Posted: 1:08 pm on September 14th
Posted: 8:54 pm on September 13th
By the way, I have two differences with the person who did the illustrations.
(1) I never used fusible interfacing for a paper-piece project. Instead, I just basted the pieced motif to the background fabric, papers and all. Then appliqued it into place. When it was completely closed with nice fine applique stitches, I went to the background and cut away all but a quarter-inch of the background. This exposes the papers. Then pull out your basting stitches (You always make sure your knots are on the right side, of course) and pop the papers. Doesn't get stiffer than regular fabric that way.
(2) I used somewhat smaller basting stitches that the pictures illustrate. You want to be sure your sides stay nice and smooth, your corners neatly tucked in, for when you do your whipstitches. This is especially important if you are doing more than one shape, as in the Ferris Wheel design. You can lose track of those corners awfully easily when you are putting hexagons, squares and triangles all together.
I always bought pre-cut paper pieces from http://www.paperpieces.com
Posted: 8:50 pm on September 13th
Posted: 7:41 pm on September 13th
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Posted: 12:49 pm on September 5th
Posted: 12:35 pm on September 5th