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How To: English Paper Piecing Project
comments (17) September 5th, 2008The most common quilt patterns that employ English paper piecing are Grandmother’s Flower Garden (I love this sweet example at Pink Lemonade Boutique) and Tumbling Blocks (which was often pieced with silk and velvet scraps). Each is a one-patch quilt made up of one shape, a hexagon and diamond, respectively. Other shapes, like triangles, can be pieced this way, too, as long as they fit side by side. The pieces are small, so it’s a great way to use scraps and sew them randomly together. But, of course, you can build a design into the quilt by using three or four different fabrics in a repetitive pattern.
I must admit, hand piecing has never been my favorite thing to do—I love my sewing machine. But, because this method is so much a part of the history of quilting and still popular today, I thought I should at least show how it’s done even though it’s been a long time since I learned it myself. Well, once I started cutting and sewing these little shapes together, I was hooked! It’s a great take-along project. Today’s fabulous fabrics give it a modern twist, and you don’t have to do a whole quilt—you can create smaller items like the Flower Garden table mat I made to show the step-by-step process.
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Use paper templates to create uniform fabric patches. |
To make this mat, you’ll need:
• Three different fabrics (some scraps or a fat quarter each will do for the hexagons, plus a 13-inch x 13-inch square for the backing)
• Printed paper shapes (you can download a sheet of hexagons here and print them out; my hexagons are 1.25 inches)
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Print out a sheet of hexagon shapes on paper to use as templates. |
• 3/8 yard of firm fusible interfacing like Pellon’s Decor Bond
• Needle and thread
• Scissors, pins, and an iron
1. Cut out the paper shapes and pin to the wrong side of each fabric. You’ll need seven of one shape and six each of the other two.
2. Cut out the fabric using the paper as a guide, adding a 1/4-inch seam allowance all around.
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Pin each paper template to the wrong side of the fabric and cut, allowing a 1/4-inch seam. |
3. Fold the seam allowance over the paper and baste in place, through the fabric and the paper.
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Fold the seam allowance over the edge of the paper and baste. |
4. Arrange the finished hexagons into a pattern.
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Arrange the basted patches in the desired pattern. |
5. Start at the center and begin sewing the hexagons together. Place two patches right sides together, matching the edges, and whipstitch along the fold, catching a slight amount of the fabric and leaving the paper free. Connect all the shapes in the same way.
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Place two patches right sides together and whipstitch along the edge. |
6. Place the completed top on the interfacing and trace around the outer edges.
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Trace the completed top onto a piece of firm interfacing. |
7. Cut out the interfacing and fuse to the backing piece. Cut out fabric using the interfacing shape as a guide and allowing a 1/4-inch seam allowance all around.
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Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the backing fabric. Cut out the fabric allowing a 1/4-inch seam. |
8. Clip the seam allowance of the backing fabric at each vee. Press the seam allowances to the inside over the interfacing.
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Clip the backing at each vee to the edge of the interfacing. |
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Turn in the edges of the backing and press. |
9. Turn the pieced top to the wrong side, gently pull out the basting stitches, and remove the paper templates.
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Remove the basting stitches from the pieced top. Gently pull out the paper pieces. |
10. Pin the top to the backing, wrong sides together, and blindstitch together along the outer edges.
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Blindstitch the pieced top to the backing. |
After you make this project, show off your work to other members!
Post your project in the gallery
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Dare to Make It! Holiday
We dare you to make your own gifts and decorations this holiday season!
Find inspiration and exciting how-to projects to get you through the holiday season in DIY style.

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Comments (17)
Posted: 3:51 am on March 28th
When I stitch the hexs together, I don't use a whipstitch. I use a locking hemstitch that I learned when I was hemming skirts as a seamstress (not the X stitch). It keeps all the thread on the wrong side and locks each stitch as you make it. The front side looks as tho you used a running stitch just like any other handsewn pieced block
Posted: 11:20 pm on March 29th
Posted: 5:43 pm on February 25th
Thoughts on finishing edges:
1) cut hexagons in half (point to point), finish the short edges like the whole hexagons, and sew into the gaps to make a straight edge, then bind with long strips (I used green like the 'paths' between my flowers).
2) cut long strips with the same 'saw tooth' pattern as the edge of the quilt, put the strip right side down on top of the quilt, and sew like the facing of a blouse by following along the edges, and turning carefully in each corner. Turning the corners will be tricky -- might want to add interfacing to make the points a little stiffer. Be sure to trim across the corners and clip the inside 'V's, as you would a shirt collar. You'll want to top stitch/quilt close to the edge to keep everything in place.
Posted: 4:21 pm on August 8th
Posted: 3:12 pm on July 21st
Posted: 10:48 am on March 8th
Posted: 9:19 am on February 13th
How to handsew a patchwork ball! Enjoy!
Posted: 5:44 pm on September 15th
Posted: 8:28 pm on September 14th
you can buy a package of 50 reusable mylar hexagons that can be popped out after stitching. This is one link I found to them.
http://www.connectingthreads.com/tools/mylar+hexagons_TDMylarHexagons.html
Char
Posted: 1:08 pm on September 14th
Posted: 8:54 pm on September 13th
By the way, I have two differences with the person who did the illustrations.
(1) I never used fusible interfacing for a paper-piece project. Instead, I just basted the pieced motif to the background fabric, papers and all. Then appliqued it into place. When it was completely closed with nice fine applique stitches, I went to the background and cut away all but a quarter-inch of the background. This exposes the papers. Then pull out your basting stitches (You always make sure your knots are on the right side, of course) and pop the papers. Doesn't get stiffer than regular fabric that way.
(2) I used somewhat smaller basting stitches that the pictures illustrate. You want to be sure your sides stay nice and smooth, your corners neatly tucked in, for when you do your whipstitches. This is especially important if you are doing more than one shape, as in the Ferris Wheel design. You can lose track of those corners awfully easily when you are putting hexagons, squares and triangles all together.
I always bought pre-cut paper pieces from http://www.paperpieces.com
Posted: 8:50 pm on September 13th
Posted: 7:41 pm on September 13th
Posted: 11:09 am on September 11th
Posted: 7:10 pm on September 6th
Posted: 12:49 pm on September 5th
Posted: 12:35 pm on September 5th