Appropriately American
September 20th, 2008 in fashionWell...it's over.
New York Fashion Week has come and gone. I can't say that it was an exciting week, but it was a good start to the month of fashion shows that will be displaying designer collections for Spring 2009. First New York, then London, Milan (watch for Prada), and finally Paris (the best of all).
Some of the collections that I found interesting were Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler, Rodarte, and Ralph Lauren. Mr. Jacobs showed an Americana-influenced collection, mixing prints, metallics, stripes, and shadow plaids in layered looks reminiscent of the 1930s–40s.
Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler's collection showed a lot of shoulder emphasis as well as loose, baggy harem pants. Inspired by 1940s factory workers, it had a modern look and used interesting tailoring.
Star Wars was the impetus for Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte. I really enjoyed their knitwear pieces—thin thread knit at a loose tension—as well as the pieces of sliced leather made to look like ribcages. I'd really like to see what they could do with a change in their silhouette from the last three seasons.
Ralph Lauren showed a luxurious Moroccan/1930s-inspired collection. The fabrics were exquisite as well as Philip Traecy's beautiful head-wraps and turbans. I would love to see Mr. Lauren create a more modern silhouette using cut and shape rather than upping the luxury quotient on established staples like the leather bomber, button-up shirt, and blouson pants.
While keeping up with the shows, I also volunteered at the Duckie Brown menswear show. There were some really interesting pieces, like a sweatshirt made entirely of embroidery as well as jackets and pants that were sewn with panels of perforated fabric. It was interesting to see the entire fashion show process from the organizing of the backstage area, preparation of models, dressing the models, and then finally seeing the end result on the catwalk.
Looking forward I can't wait for the Paris shows. There's such a difference in the style and presentation of the clothing, models, accessories, and catwalk. The attention to creating the complete vision is something I feel European design stresses much more than American. It might also be the clichéd "exoticism" of Europe. It's really amazing.
Follow the shows at style.com and see if you can spot what I'm talking about.
















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