How to: Zippers (Part 3)comments (5) September 23rd, 2008
Invisible zippers are my favorite! I have now learned how to adjust patterns to accommodate an invisible zipper simply because they are so easy for me. Here are the steps.
First things first. Know the difference between the front (right side) and back (wrong side) of the invisible zipper. The front is very smooth and the teeth are invisible. The back looks like a regular zipper.
Next, I like to stitch a scant 1/4-inch seam along the raw edge I will be sewing the zipper to. A scant 1/4 inch is just a pinch narrower than a true 1/4 inch. I usually select a straight stitch with a center needle position and move my needle position to the right.
Finish off your raw edge with a zigzag to keep the fibers from getting caught in your zipper, and pin the zipper to the fabric right sides together. Match the tape (non-tooth) side of your zipper to the scant 1/4-inch stitch line.
Next comes the foot. I'm a fanatic about invisible zipper feet mostly because they work for me, every time! The foot has a specially designed groove that rolls the teeth of the zipper out of the way, allowing you to stitch in the perfect little tunnel under the teeth.
Stitch down the other side of the zipper the same way. Zip the zipper closed and press with an iron.
Sew your facing or neckhole lining in place as directed in the instructions.
Starting 1 inch above where you stopped sewing the zipper in place, sew the remaining seam on the garment closed.